A weight-y issue

            Weight management is an important element in raising a puppy.  A healthy weight leads to a better quality of life and improves the dog’s ability to work as a guide. 

            It is very normal for puppies to go through awkward, lanky stages and there may be times when they hit a growth spurt and will need to take in more calories. 



Lean (but normal) puppy on a growth spurt - narrow, but not bony



            It is important to adjust to any changes in metabolism and be prepared to adjust your puppy’s food intake accordingly.  The measurements listed on the bag are a good starting off point, but they are suggestions and won’t work for every dog. 

            Dogs can have a varied appearance even within their breed.  There are stocky, “show style” Labradors (sometimes called “English style”), long-legged “field style” Labradors (sometimes called “American style”), and everything in between.  There are also “show” and “field” Golden retrievers.  Since we breed for working ability rather than appearance, we see a tremendous variety within our lines of dogs.  “Showy” dogs tend to have a wider build than the leaner “field” dogs and will often need fewer calories.  So dogs at the same height and weight may still have different feeding requirements.  There is no hard-and-fast rule when it comes to the amount of food an individual dog needs.

            Remember, a retriever does not generally "feel full", so we are responsible for controlling their portions and keeping them at their healthiest.

            There are some good, general rules of thumb when checking a dog’s weight.  You should be able to feel each individual rib without having to dig for them.  The dog should have an abdominal tuck when viewed from the side or above.  Their rib area should not be wider than their shoulders.  They should not have fatty deposits near their tail (forming a “dimple”) or on their chest.  You should not be able to see their hipbones or their spine, or count all of their ribs. On the other hand, they should not look like a table when viewed from above. 



"Table-like" appearance... identity concealed to protect the innocent!



            The puppy raiser manual includes a weight chart, but I wanted to post some photographs of dogs to show a variety of body types as well as different angles.  (Most of these are older photos, although some recent dogs are also pictured)



Ideal weight when viewed from the side - notice abdominal tuck, tight chest



Overweight from the side - no tuck, sagging chest and belly, deposits on shoulders



Ideal weight laying down (petite build) - no excessive padding on the ribs



Overweight laying down - deposits on ribcage



A good overhead comparison - heavy dog on the left, ideal weight dog on the right



Too thin - ribs too easily palpable, hip bones visible



Ideal weight sitting - no deposits on chest or belly - note, this dog has a wide build but is muscular and not sagging



Overweight sitting - sagging chest, excessive weight "pooled" around hips and elbows



Ideal weight Golden - despite all that hair, abdominal tuck still present!



Overweight Golden - deposits on ribs, "table" backed



Ideal weight on a Labrador with a wide build - lots of skin though! :)



Overweight on a wide build

         When raising a puppy, it is important to consider caloric intake.  Treats are frequently named as the culprit in overweight dogs.  Milkbones, even small ones, have a fairly large calorie content.  Vegetables such as carrots and broccoli can even add up quickly.  The best way to give a “treat” if your dog is on a diet is to measure out their meals, then take a few pieces of kibble out of the total for the day and save them as treats.  If you want to make them a little more “meaningful”, you can put them in a ziplock bag with soft, stinky treats or with a little bit of grated parmesan cheese to give them more flavor. 

            If you’re following the diet restrictions and the puppy is having trouble losing the weight, it may be time to talk to your vet about a low-calorie, high-fiber “light” food, or a fiber-heavy additive for their food (such as green beans).  The addition of fiber will help the dog feel fuller and will make the diet a more pleasant experience. 

            Many puppies will also go through a lanky phase.  You can add more food to their diet but keep in mind it is likely a temporary growth spurt and we don’t want to add too much weight too quickly.  If you can see their spine and their hip bones, then they are definitely too thin, but if they are simply long and lean, they may just be going through a disproportionate phase.  

            Why is it so important to make sure your guide dog puppy isn’t overweight?  

Excessive weight can affect a dog’s joints.  We x-ray all of our dogs’ elbows and hips when they come in for training.  If the dog is overweight, it can cause premature changes to their joints that can eliminate them from consideration as a guide dog or a breeder.  This also often leads to further complications, arthritis, and pain down the road. 

Carrying extra weight can affect the dog’s stamina on routes and may delay their training.  We start with short, simple routes but it does get hot quickly as the day goes on, and trainers have to take it easy with dogs that are not able to work as well due to their weight.  While there are dogs at a normal weight who could be categorized as low energy, heat intolerance due to weight problems is very different and much more problematic.  Overweight dogs are more prone to heat stroke and have to be worked carefully.

Dogs with extra weight are also more prone to injuries (such as torn cruciate ligaments), diseases (such as heart problems and diabetes), skin infections, and digestive disorders.  They also have a shorter life span overall.

It’s important for any dog of any breed, working or pet, to be kept at a healthy weight.  It’s extra important with our guide dogs because they are going on to do a very physical job.  Retrievers are also a breed that will generally eat everything and anything put in front of them; they do not stop when they are “full”.  I’ve heard many stories (and told some of my own) about dogs that got into their dog food bags and ate pounds of kibble in one sitting.  It is our responsibility as their caretakers to keep them at a healthy weight so that they can live the longest, best life possible.  If you have concerns about your dog’s weight, please speak with your AC or our puppy raising department.  We are happy to work with you to find a solution and come up with a plan to help your puppy be the healthiest he can be.

Call to heel

The “heel” position is defined as the dog seated at his handler’s left side. We like to have our puppies think of heel as a default position and are taught to sit and down at our side right from the start. However, one of the challenges of heel is getting a dog to reliably move into a nice straight position at your side when given the “heel” command. Most dogs want to look at our faces when responding to a command, which tends to result in their being skewed out to the side; they also generally lack “hind-end awareness”, meaning they aren’t conscious of the fact that they have a rear end. Dogs don’t automatically pay attention to their orientation in relation to their handler; they have to be taught.

We teach what is known as a “horseshoe heel”. The dog makes a horseshoe shaped u-turn at your side in order to position themselves at heel. Traditionally, this has been taught starting with the dog seated in front of the handler, followed by the handler taking a big step back with their left foot, encouraging the dog to move to that side and u-turn into heel. One of the problems we’ve found with this is that the dogs often aren’t prompted into movement by a single step; some even seem to think it’s a trick and that they’re supposed to be staying! Other dogs have a tendency to not go back far enough and they make a “shallow” turn, ending up crooked.

We want to make this more fun and motivating for our puppies, so we’re changing the way we are teaching it. This technique is also able to be started with a puppy of any age, and it breaks down the behavior in a way that is easier to understand.

1. Face the puppy and get their attention. They can be in a sit position, distracted, or just “hanging out”. Call the dog clearly, “Scorch, come!”, and praise them as soon as they respond (make sure to keep the recall high value and give them immediate feedback; this is the most important command they will learn). You can stop and have a praise party to reward them for responding to the recall. After you have their attention, start backing up and encouraging them to follow you.

Calling distracted Theo

2. As they move towards you, encourage them towards your left side and say “heel”. Don’t pull them on a tight leash; you can use light tugs to encourage them, but try using hand motions or pat your leg to help direct them.

Backing up and encouraging Theo into heel

3. As they move to your left side, start moving forward again for a few steps. You want to maintain your orientation; it is the dog that is going to change direction. By suddenly reversing the direction you’re moving in from backwards to forwards, the puppy will naturally make a u-turn if they are following you (if they get “lost”, give light tugs on the leash to remind them to pay attention). Ideally, the dog will turn towards you when they make their u-turn, but the direction they turn is not as important as ending up in a proper heel.

Changing direction to help Theo make the u-turn

4. Take as many steps as necessary to get the puppy in a straight position at your side. Stop and pet the puppy, helping him make a positive association with being at your side. Use the leash to help him stop if needed, and use a flat hand on his hip to reposition him if he “swings out”.

Proper standing heel position

5. Once the puppy is willingly moving into heel, mold them into a sit. You can use the verbal “sit” to help them out if need be, but also make sure you’re guiding them with your hand. You can use a light pinch right above their hips, or pressure on the base of their tail, but have your hand present initially to prevent them from swinging out. Dogs tend to want to look at us when they hear a verbal “sit”, and that often causes them to be crooked or wide, so we want them to have a consistent history of sitting straight.

Lightly pinching to mold the sit

A nice, straight sit

6. Slowly wean off of the backwards motion until you are only taking a step or two, and you may even be able to wean them off of the step entirely. However, it is important to have a loose leash when working on this command, so some dogs may benefit from having the step as an extra clue for a while.



The most important thing to remember as a raiser is that we are not looking for perfection from your puppy. We are looking for a dog who is happy to work and is thinking through commands. This technique breaks down the call-to-heel so that the puppy can work through each element individually: the movement towards you, the u-turn, the heel position, and the sit.

The straight sit is important because if you are visually impaired and call your dog to heel, you want your dog to adjust to your orientation, not the other way around. Just a small movement can skew your direction quite dramatically. Try facing in a direction and focus on a distant landmark. Call your dog to heel and if they are crooked, shift yourself so you are standing at heel position next to them. Now look up and straight ahead; is the landmark you picked in front of you now? Many times, just a small shift will reset your direction. With a visual impairment, that reset can get you lost.

By making sure you’re molding the dog into a sit, or even molding them into the proper standing position next to you, you’re helping to build your dog’s muscle memory and making a straight heel feel more natural to your dog.

You don’t always have to pair the come command and heel together; use the come command if you need the dog’s attention, but if you already have it, you can just give the command to “heel” and start backing up. You should also sometimes call them to come and have them “take a break” without having to sit or go to heel. For puppies, the come command simply means “come over here within reach”.

I like to play the call-to-heel game any time my dog gets distracted. You can try it on fun walks as well as in-coat. Practice it in stores, or after your dog has greeted someone. Practice it if you’ve been stopped for a while and you’re ready to set off walking with your pup again. Try it if you’re giving your dog a treat, rather than having them sit in front of you. If you make this exercise a positive, fun part of daily life, your puppy will easily “reset” themselves when put into this position, and it’s a great way to regain attention.

Well-aligned Theo

Sticky stays

In puppy raising and in guide dog work, “stay” is an extremely useful command. It sends a clear message that the dog is supposed to remain in one place and be still until the handler releases the dog from the position. However, “stay” is a very difficult command for a puppy to follow. There are so many more interesting things to do than to just sit still!

The best way to teach a reliable stay command is by building up many, many successes. The more stays that the puppy is able to complete without correction and be released from, the more solid his understanding will be. There will be times when the puppy will break his stay and will have to be “reset”, but if those broken stays are surrounded by successful ones, he’ll have a clearer understanding of what he is supposed to do.

It’s also important that the dog is choosing to stay, not being held in place by a tight leash. The handler shouldn’t be doing all the work; the dog should! If the dog is constantly straining at the leash during the stay attempt, then the handler should try to find a way to make the dog successful, possibly by moving the puppy away from a distraction.

Speaking of distractions… when teaching stays, I like to reference the 3 D’s: Duration, Distance, and Distraction. It’s important to teach each one singly so as not to overwhelm the puppy. It’s also a good idea to train in multiple short sessions rather than drilling multiple stays.

Duration is simply the length of time the dog is in a specific position. When I start teaching “stay” to a puppy, I generally start with a sit-stay in heel position. I give the dog the signal to stay, wait a moment, quietly praise, and release. I try to start right from the beginning praising DURING the stay; I don’t want the puppy to think that all good things only happen after the release, nor do I want them to think that I’m not allowed to talk during the stay. We’ve all been that handler… silently holding our breath, hoping the dog won’t get up! Quiet praise gets the dog used to noise during the stay and lets them know they’re on the right track.

After the dog has successfully progressed with duration training (I like to have a solid stay in a quiet environment of about 15 seconds before I move on), I start working on distance. When I’m working on distance, the stays are going to be a lot shorter than 15 seconds because I’m adding a new element. Since I’ve been standing still up to this point, I might just shuffle my feet, praise, and release. Sometimes any movement at all is enough to break a puppy out of a stay, so decrease the amount of foot movement until the puppy can be successful. Once I can move my feet, I go “knees to nose” by stepping directly in front of the puppy, then pivot back to the heel position, quietly praise, and release. When building distance, it’s important to come back to the puppy before releasing them. Later, when they have a firmer understanding of stay, you can call them to “come”. But doing so now can create a dog who anticipates getting to run towards you and isn’t as firmly planted.

When working on distractions, you can probably easily make a list of the dog’s most distracting things. If you made a list for my border collie Scorch, it would go like this:

1. Tennis ball
2. Rope tug toy
3. Treats
4. Food
5. People
6. Dogs

Some puppies will have a list quite similar to Scorch’s; other puppies (looking at you, Labradors) will list food as their top priority, often followed by other dogs. But if I was teaching Scorch to stay around distractions, I wouldn’t start by bouncing a bunch of tennis balls in front of him. I’d start with a lower valued distraction. In his case it would be other dogs (he’s generally not interested in befriending strange dogs, but he’ll spare them a glance). I would set him up around the distraction at a reasonable distance. I would want him to see the other dog, but not be so close that he can’t concentrate. I’d have him do a sit-stay, right at heel position, for a couple of seconds, quietly praise, and release. I’m eliminating the duration and distance we’ve achieved because I don’t want to challenge him so much that he can’t focus. Then I’ll gradually decrease the distance between ourselves and the distracter dog, over several training sessions.

Puppy raising is unique compared to raising a pet because your puppy goes out and about from an early age. If you want to practice a stay around distractions, go to the grocery store, walk around for a bit so the puppy is adjusted to being in an exciting location, then do a brief stay right at heel. You might have the most success practicing in one of the open areas, or an aisle with dried goods on it. Make some progress there, then move to a more challenging aisle (like the pet food aisle) and start over with easier stays.

Early, frequent, consistent “stay” training results in “sticky stays”. You want a dog who has a clear understanding that stay means “remain in one location until you are released or given another command.” If you’re not sure if your dog can hold the stay or if your puppy is breaking the stay repeatedly, try changing the criteria until you reach a level where the puppy can be successful. Set them up for stays throughout the day: during commercial breaks, before exiting their crate, before going through a door, before you let them off of tie-down for a play session, after pottying, before meal times, etc etc. The possibilities are endless! The important part is to work training into small, brief, successful sessions throughout the day and setting the puppy up for understanding. Remember the 3 D’s any time that you tell your dog to “stay” and you will get a dog who “sticks”!

Out for a walk

When raising a guide dog puppy, it’s important to be clear on your instructions and expectations. We want to be sure that we’re fair, firm, but also fun when training. So keeping that in mind, I want to talk about the use of the command “forward” and how it applies to our future working dogs.

Guide dogs wear a harness when on-duty; the harness handle is how they communicate with their handler. Through the handle, they guide their person through crowds, around obstacles, and up to curbs. They are always on the lookout for potential interference and are constantly problem-solving. That is why it is so important for the dogs to get time off to just be a dog. When a guide dog is out of harness, they are still expected to have leash and house manners, but then they are not responsible for their person. On leash and out of harness, they are in following mode, rather than leading mode.

So when we’re teaching a guide dog puppy manners, it is important that they understand how to behave in coat. We want to try to have a puppy that is confident and driven to walk out ahead (because they’ll eventually have to pull out against a harness) but also is well-behaved and not scavenging, yanking, or jumping. They are not allowed to eat, drink, or busy while in coat. If they start to have an accident with the coat on and you’re going to allow them to finish (such as during a bout of doggie diarrhea), take the coat off if you can. If they are acting thirsty and someone offers your puppy some water, take the coat off to allow them to have a drink. If you have a puppy 10 months or older, take the coat off before allowing them to greet someone. All of that consistency helps them understand on-duty versus off-duty.

The forward position itself should place the dog about a foot in front of you. A good rule of thumb is that the dog’s hind feet should line up with your feet. That is the default walking position when raising a puppy. The leash will usually have some tension in it; however, the puppy should not be pulling your arm off. Some less confident dogs may have a loose leash or may not be out ahead enough, but ideally they will be happy to drive forward.

Ideal forward position

When using the command “forward”, encourage your puppy to move out. At first, this may involve stepping off with your left foot (the foot closest to the puppy) and having to verbally encourage them to move out. Eventually, the puppy should step off first when hearing the command, followed by the raiser. To teach this, you can give the command forward, then sweep your hand under the leash and lightly tug forward. Start walking and praising as soon as your dog moves out. This will also mimic the hand signal we eventually use with forward, although the signal will be given with the right hand. However, by introducing it with your hand close to the puppy’s field of vision and pairing it with a light leash pull, you are teaching the dog to pay attention to both verbal and signal cues. Then the dog will learn that they are supposed to lead out on your command.

Light forward pressure helps encourage the dog to step out first

This is how the puppy will eventually work as a guide dog: the owner will say, “Freckles, forward!” and will wait for Freckles to start moving. That way, if Freckles determines that it is unsafe to move out (because of a car or an obstacle that her owner hasn’t identified yet), she can communicate the presence of a problem by intelligently disobeying the command. This is something that we teach when the dog is training for harness work with our trainers, but you can lay the foundation by teaching them to initiate movement when you say “forward”, rather than having them wait for your body motion.

Popi confidently starts walking on the verbal "forward" command

That leads me to “fun walks”. Fun walks are a chance for a puppy to just relax and enjoy the world around them. You can give the puppy more leash freedom and allow them to explore. Remember that dogs see the world best through their nose, so sniffing is an important exercise and gives them a mental break. On fun walks, a dog can just be a dog… to a point. We still don’t want the puppy to get into trouble by eating inappropriate objects, marking their territory repeatedly/lifting their leg, or yanking on the leash.

Several times, I have been asked about a particular scenario. For example, when a puppy has stopped to enjoy a long, luxurious sniff, he may want to linger and is not interested in continuing to walk. However, at some point, the raiser is ready to move on. In this case, rather than use a phrase such as “let’s go” or “come on”, or rather than using the leash alone to get the dog moving, the command “forward” can be applied to get the dog back in motion. If the dog does not respond, then a leash correction can be used (as appropriate for the puppy’s age). The puppy should walk in “forward” position for as long as you would like to keep them walking there; however, this should always be followed by “take a break” when you are ready to allow them to sniff and “goof off” again. The forward position out-of-coat can be more "casual" than an in-coat forward. The walk should still be enjoyable for both you and the puppy.

Popi gets distracted on our fun walk

Popi has learned to leave the distraction when I tell her "forward"

This way, the puppy understands that even out of coat, “forward” is the command that means “begin forward motion”. When the puppy comes in for harness training, we will be dropping any use of “forward” when not in harness and will be teaching the dog to heel next to us.

Please note that we do not have raisers teach a moving heel command. Your puppies will learn “heel” as a stationary command to mean “come to my left side”, but any time that you’re walking with them, they should be leading in the forward position. We want to instill that confidence while they’re young; it’s easier to dial down over-confidence than to put confidence back once it’s lost.

That being said, if the puppy surges forward or lunges, pair a collar correction with the word "easy". If they are pulling towards a specific distraction, such as another dog or a person they want to see, you can stop or change direction as soon as they start to pull. Do not allow the dog to yank on the lead. If you are having a problem with control on lead, talk to your AC about different techniques.

Teething terrors

An inevitable part of puppy raising is the terror of teething. Newborn puppies do not have any teeth, much to the delight of their mother. The eruption of puppy teeth starts the weaning process, as mom gets less tolerant of painful nursing. Then the puppies come home to you with a set of 28 razor sharp fangs… er, I mean puppy teeth.

Even though puppies don’t start losing their teeth until around 12 weeks of age and generally have their entire set of 42 adult teeth by 7 months old, the teething process can be a lot longer. As puppies grow, their adult teeth “buds” start to form under their gum line. Their baby teeth begin to spread out and shift in their mouth. So the teeth are in a constant state of moving around and preparing to turn over several weeks before any teeth actually fall out. If I could imagine a comparison, it would probably be akin to having braces tightened, or worse, having spacers between your teeth (I’ve had both, and I can verify that it’s terrible).


Teeny, tiny fangs


A canine tooth ready to fall out

So puppies start exploring the world with their mouths at a young age, and often seek relief for their aching or itching gums. Their front incisors begin to fall out first, followed by their canine teeth, and then finally their molars. Once all of the adult teeth have appeared, there is a light at the end of the teething tunnel! Some puppies do seem to retain mouthiness for longer than expected; it’s possible that even though they appear to be done teething, the teeth are still settling and finishing their eruption, even though they’ve all appeared. Or it could be that the puppy still has the chewing habit and takes comfort from mouthy behavior.

Teething sometimes goes hand in hand with other behaviors. Along with chewing, some puppies also bark, snap at the air, grab clothing, or dig. All of these behaviors are generally expressions of frustration and are tied to discomfort.


What frustration looks like (yes that's my baby Scorch)

There are several techniques for dealing with teething puppies, and I don’t think that there is any one “right” answer. I have had many puppies come through my house, and I have experienced many different levels of intensity when it comes to teething. Some puppies chew lightly and for a relatively brief period of time, some puppies are sharky monsters, and other puppies are in between.


Cue the theme from Jaws

A good rule of thumb for any unwanted behavior is “correct and redirect”. But it is also worth remembering that preventing unfair situations can go a long way; we do want to set the dog up for success, so being prepared is the best treatment for problems.

As far as correcting mouthing on people, generally the mild to moderate teethers respond well to corrections. A verbal correction can be a stern, low “NO” or a high-pitched “OUCH”. When young puppies play together or with their mother, displeasure at being bitten too hard is expressed with a low growl or a high yelp, so this correction mimics what they are used to. You can also withdraw all attention as part of a correction; if you’re petting the puppy and they turn around and start mouthing, stop petting them and ignore them entirely. They can quickly learn that you’ll only continue play and attention if they keep their teeth to themselves. Another option is a physical correction; a physical correction would entail pushing down on the tongue with your thumb, firmly holding the lower jaw, or holding the muzzle with your hand.


Thumb on the tongue


Holding the jaw

Determined teethers (or “sharks”) will often be more aggravated by corrections. These puppies tend to start snapping, barking, and generally increasing in intensity. In that case, do not continue to use “around the mouth” corrections. When they start mouthing or biting your hand, say “OUCH” or “NO”, then immediately withdraw your attention and/or walk away. By removing the temptation of your delicious flesh or clothing, the puppy is free to focus their frustrations on a nearby toy. However, sometimes these determined puppies will bite your legs or feet if you stand up or try to walk away, or will grab the nearest piece of furniture. While I am not a proponent of using the crate or tie-down for punishment, there are times when they are appropriate “time out” spaces. If the puppy is mouthing and getting overly worked up, quietly deposit them into the crate or tie them down out of your reach, then ignore them for a few minutes. Do not scold them or make a big deal about it, and they don’t have to stay in “time out” for very long. Generally when I do this with a puppy, they’re in “time out” for about 5 minutes, unless they are extremely worked up. When they’re allowed to rejoin the party, I make sure I have a variety of prepared toys available as alternatives.

Let’s talk about toys for a minute, because they can really make a difference, for better or worse, with teething. I think it’s safe to say that raisers are really good at supplying the puppy with toys and understand that surviving teething involves, “Don’t chew on this, here’s a more appropriate chew toy instead.” However, puppies do have different tastes and preferences and teething can make them more sensitive. Sometimes a bit of creativity and experimentation is necessary.

With puppies I’ve had, they seem to be more likely to chew intensely immediately after eating (hard food) or chewing on hard toys. Part of the reason they often seek out skin, clothing, leashes, or papers may be because they are looking for something with a little more give. Many teething puppies also like cold items; this may explain why some puppies seek out metal bowls or glass coffee tables (then again, some puppies are just quirky).

The Kong toys we recommend come in several strengths. I tend to keep Kongs stuffed with peanut butter or canned puppy food in my freezer when I have a teething puppy. The “puppy strength” Kong (tie-dye blue or pink) is softer than the standard red Kongs. I generally only give this type of Kong with supervision, but it’s often a good way to occupy a frustrated, teething puppy. The other strengths of Kong are red (regular strength), black (strong), and royal blue (strongest, available from vets).


Puppy Kongs


Black and red Kongs

Besides the Kongs, Nylabones also come in several strengths. Again, the softer Nylabones require supervision, but they can be a nice option to have on hand when a puppy decides crazy hour has begun. They can also be chilled to help soothe puppy gums. Nylabones are available in a teething strength (shaped like keys, fish, and other odd items) and Gumabone strength (clear, flexible plastic).


Gumabones

Another option is a soft, squeaker-less toy. I’ve used old towels (tied up so they don’t resemble towels I actually care about), Chilly bones, canvas soft toys, or stuffing-less “skins”. They can be dipped into water and then frozen, or just given plain (again, with supervision). Take any toy away if the dog starts tearing or shredding the toy into pieces, but sometimes a softer toy can provide relief in a way that nothing else can quite match.


Baby Scorch with one of his "teething skins"

Remember to correct and redirect when your puppy chews on an inappropriate item. If they are on leash or tie-down, it is very easy to give a quick correction, and then show them the toy you would like them to chew on. If they are determined to keep chewing on the table leg (or fill in your own forbidden item), a time out can help drive the point home. Keep in mind that teething is a relatively short time period in the life of a dog, even though sometimes it feels like a lifetime. As the puppy matures, the “sharkiness” does subside. I’ve survived bouts of teething puppies using equal parts creativity, patience, and repetition/redirection. As always, if you find yourself stumped by a puppy’s behavior, please don’t hesitate to contact your AC or our Puppy Raising Department for guidance.

Equipment

Walk into any pet supply store, and you’ll be faced with a myriad of choices when it comes to collars, leashes, and other training aids. Venture onto the internet or into a training class and you’ll likely encounter very strong opinions one way or the other about pieces of equipment.

The fact of the matter is that a piece of equipment is as good as the trainer using it. Just about any tool is useful in certain applications, on certain dogs, with certain handlers. At Southeastern Guide Dogs, we have chosen equipment that we believe allows us to raise the best guide dogs possible. There are reasons behind our choices that I’d like to share with you, and hopefully that will help you to use the equipment effectively and understand how equipment can affect your puppies.

One aspect I’d like you to keep in mind when reading this is called “opposition reflex”. That is an instinctive, unconscious response a dog has to pressure. When they feel pressure on a collar or harness, they pull against it rather than backing away from it. We utilize opposition reflex when harness training our dogs; we want them to pull against the chest strap of the guide dog harness hard enough that they can communicate information to the handler.

Approved equipment:
Buckle collar: A buckle collar is a great choice for puppies and some adult dogs. It is adjustable, limited in movement, and if a young puppy gets excited and lunges, there aren’t immediate negative consequences from the collar. This helps to build confidence. It is possible to make a correction with a buckle collar; however most dogs aren’t bothered by this. The buckle collar is also the appropriate collar to use with a tie-down.



Sometimes a Martingale collar can be a good transition from buckle collar to training collar. It is limited slip, so can be good for dogs who try to escape their buckle collars, and it also carries a little more “oomph” than a buckle collar as far as corrections go.



Leash: A 4- to 6-foot leash made of cotton, nylon, or leather can have some variations. I personally like a leash with adjustable length to it. I can keep it at around 4 feet, but unclip one of the rings and get to around 6 feet for more distance during the “stay” and “come” commands. Some raisers also prefer a leash that has an extra loop near the collar, in order to gain control of the dog if needed. Chain leashes can be very painful on the hands; I had my pinky finger get caught in one once and it ended very unpleasantly for me when the dog lunged.

Training collar: At 6 months of age, we ask that you transition your puppy into a chain training collar, sometimes known as a choke chain. There is sometimes controversy over this collar because it is a “continuous slip” collar, meaning it will close until it tightens on the dog’s neck. If used improperly, this collar can cause harm to the trachea. However, so can other collars and proper use should prevent problems. The collar should remain loose the vast majority of the time. When tight, the collar should have about 2 to 3 inches of chain extended. Too much means you won’t get an effective correction; too little, and the collar won’t fit over the dog’s head or will remain tight all the time.


Julie models a well-fitted collar. Please do not have your puppy wear a buckle collar and training collar together; Julie is an Ambassador dog, not a puppy in training.

Some collars are equipped with a “toggle”, which makes it easier to put a properly fitted collar onto a dog with a large head. The collar should form a “P” shape (not a “Q”!) when putting it on over the dog’s head. A properly placed collar will pop and release smoothly; a collar put on backwards will fold over itself and won’t release after being tightened. A correction is given using a pop-and-release motion (easier said that done sometimes!). If the puppy starts yanking and is choking at the end of the lead, they need gradual distraction work. Talk with your AC or contact the Puppy Raising Services field representative for assistance.



Unapproved equipment:
Pinch collars: There are a lot of strong opinions on pinch collars (also known as prong collars), so this part is going to be lengthy!



The prong collar operates on a principle of discomfort; the level of discomfort that the dog feels is very dependent on the individual dog, both in regards to their emotional sensitivity and their physical conformation. The prong collar, like any training tool, can still inflict physical injury. It is a “limited slip collar”, so does not close indefinitely when a correction is applied. However, dogs can and do hit the end of the collar hard if the collar is not properly managed.

More concerning, however, are the less obvious side effects. I have used prong collars successfully on extremely thick-necked, stoic, insensitive dogs. Properly used, these collars allow for a more effective correction with less effort and often can help a dog turn their attention back to the task at hand. My pit bull mix was fantastic on the prong and only wore it for a relatively brief period of time.

But because prong collars are intended to cause discomfort, dogs can make some negative associations. If a dog tends to pull and get excited at the sight of another dog, the collar will pinch as soon as the leash tightens even slightly. If they lunge, the collar will tighten further. Every time the dog sees another dog, they feel discomfort or even pain. I don’t believe the collar will generally create dog-aggression where there hasn’t been any before, but if the dog tends to feel at all insecure or overconfident when other dogs are around, that reaction can quickly magnify into leash reactivity or full-on dog aggression. We have seen this many times in training here, and I have seen it in my general obedience classes. Because prong collars are generally used in highly distracting situations, the team runs the risk of aggravating any potential problems. Intact males are generally the ones who would be volunteered for a control/management tool but they are also arguably the ones most prone to dog aggression.

Dogs also can develop a collar aversion that can generalize to other collars. My pit bull mix was elated when he saw the prong collar come out, since it meant we were going out somewhere. My border collies, however, would stiffen up as soon as the collar neared their necks. My younger collie developed a phobia towards getting any collar on and had to be worked through it over time. I only used the prong collar on him on a few occasions but he developed the discomfort almost immediately. He also increased his leash reactivity towards other dogs ten-fold. We tried the plastic “Good Dog Collar” (which operated on the same principle as the prong collar) on several dogs in the puppy raiser homes and some of those dogs later shied away from collars when they came IFT.

Finally, the prong collar can sometimes mask problems and decrease confidence. We want a dog who is eager and excited to walk out in front of their handler and the prong collar tends to decrease that confident response. We also want to address any training issues rather than just manage them through the use of the collar.

We do occasionally use prong collars on the dogs in harness training. Generally they are only used on dogs that show a tendency towards a soft trachea or are recovering from kennel cough. The use of the collars is monitored by our certified trainers and our director of training, Rick Holden. It is still a rare event to have a dog on a prong while they are IFT. In class, however, the use of the prong is more common. This is generally due to a student/dog team who are a mismatch in size and/or strength. Safety of the student becomes the highest priority and that is where a control tool becomes important and beneficial. The situation is still carefully monitored and is only used when necessary. The above photograph is of a graduate’s dog.

Gentle Leader/Halti head collars: These tools are worn over the dog’s muzzle. They are designed to reduce pulling by controlling the front of the dog; the dog starts to pull, the handler applies pressure to the leash, and the dog’s head (and body) turn back towards the handler.

My personal opinion is that head collars are not necessarily the best training aids for general leash walking (although I have used them successfully with aggression cases, and some dogs do take to it well). Many dogs find the head halter uncomfortable. It takes time to get a dog to adjust to the halter and some dogs never fully accept it, thus creating equipment aversion.

In the context of guide dog training, head halters can have the same negative effect as pinch collars: they can lower confidence and result in a dog who won’t pull out. We don’t want the dog in a heel position, but rather a position slightly in front of the handler. The head halters are designed to work best with the dog right next to the handler’s leg. Safety becomes a concern the farther out the dog is from the handler; if they lunge and hit the end of the leash hard, they can hurt their necks from being pulled around suddenly.

Easy Walk/Sporn anti-pull harnesses: I do actually really like the Easy Walk harness and recommend it frequently for pet dogs. However, remember that opposition reflex I mentioned earlier? Using a harness that discourages pulling hurts us in the long run, because we need a dog who pulls against a strap across their chest. Anti-pull harnesses discourage that in various ways, so they should not be used on puppies in our program.

Those are some of the common pieces of equipment that you’re likely to encounter. We do require that the dogs be trained in a training collar, buckle collar, and standard leash. We are happy to work with any training issues you might encounter and understand that while everything can sound great on paper, the reality with dogs is sometimes very different. Guide dog training is very specialized, and we do have reasons for not allowing certain equipment. Hopefully this helps to clear up any questions!

Take a Break, Greetings, and Other Dogs

There are two new training protocols going into place this month!

The first is a clarification on the often-used phrase "take a break". We currently use the term as a release from a command in obedience, as well as when giving the dog permission to access something, such as food. The manual presently states that "take a break" is not to be used when the puppy is in coat. However, further discussions have led us to discover some situations where the use of "take a break" while in coat might be beneficial.

When it comes to allowing a puppy (under 10 months old) to greet strangers for socialization purposes, it's extremely important to control jumping, but it is equally important to leave the puppy with a positive association with strangers. One way to set the puppy up for a successful greeting is by allowing the puppy to close the distance between themselves and the stranger they are looking to greet.

Have the puppy sit while the stranger approaches, but have the stranger stop a few feet away. Tell the puppy to "take a break", and allow the puppy to approach the stranger for attention. This often helps cut down on some of the anticipation that can lead to jumping. If the puppy cannot keep all 4 feet on the ground, give them a leash correction, move them away from the friendly stranger, and try an approach again. The puppy will then learn that the interaction will only continue if they are on their best manners.

Bentley sits and waits for permission

Here I am going to reference Karen Mersereau's wonderful "Box of Acceptable Behaviors", also known as the BOAB. For a young puppy, the BOAB might be fairly large and simply be limited to "keep all 4 paws on the floor". As they learn and grow, your expectations will change and you'll want to have the puppy in a controlled sit for petting. But the controlled sit is a behavior that can be worked up to. If your puppy is sitting nicely for petting but looks like he is about to burst, telling him to "take a break" and allowing him to move into the greeting can give him a greater chance of success.

Bentley is allowed to visit without jumping

The other nice thing about using "take a break" for greetings is that it helps clarify to the dog that the greeting is with your permission. After 10 months of age, you are no longer allowing your puppy to greet strangers in coat, so they no longer are receiving that verbal permission slip.

Finally, you can use "take a break" in coat if you are working on obedience in a public place where your dog must be in coat. For example, if you're working on some tough distracted stays in a hardware store, it is beneficial to allow your dog to "take a break" and de-stress. Even during out-of-coat releases, you don't want to allow your puppy to scavenge, jump, mouth, or get completely out of control, and the same would apply with "take a break" in-coat. It's just giving your dog a mental break and a chance to relax.

We are putting an age restriction of 10 months old on the use of "take a break" when in coat. For one, that is the age when in-coat-greetings cease. It is also an age when it's reasonable to expect that your dog should be working the entire time they are in a store, and they can wait to "take a break" until they are outside and out of coat.

The other protocol adjustment I want to address is allowing your puppy to greet other dogs on leash.

When allowing the puppy to greet other dogs, the situation should remain under handler control. It is important that the puppy still be attentive to the handler even when engaged with visiting another dog. If the dogs are allowed to greet on lead, the puppy should be out of coat. The puppy should "earn" the greeting by responding to a command first; for example, the puppy should walk a few steps on a loose lead and sit before being allowed to "take a break" and say hello. If the puppy is too excitable and is not willing to respond to commands, then it's important not to allow the puppy to greet the other dog. Instead, use the other dog as a distraction and work on recovering focus back on to you.

Bentley shows control around the leashed dog

If the puppy does manage to show some control and is allowed to greet on leash (out of coat), the greeting should be brief, and then both handlers should call their dogs away from the interaction. It's important that greetings stay brief and positive; if they go on too long, leashes could get entangled, tension could build between dogs, and the puppy could develop a negative association. Puppies going through puberty tend to build tension faster, so interrupting the greeting while it is still friendly is beneficial.

Bentley makes a friend

After a quick hello, the interaction is broken with a recall

If one of the dogs begins to posture, it is time to cut the interaction short. We are not putting an age restriction on these kinds of greetings because they do often occur in adulthood; for example, if a graduate wants to introduce his new dog to his previous dog, he might well introduce them on-leash on neutral territory. So it is beneficial for the puppy to be able to greet appropriately. However, do not allow your puppy to visit with another dog if either your pup or the other dog has a tense appearance. That includes holding the head and tail high, hackles raised, and a stiff, still body; this also includes growling or barking.

If the puppy is playing off-lead in an enclosed area with another dog, it is also beneficial to interrupt that interaction occasionally. Never call the dog to "come" in this highly distracting scenario because it is likely that the puppy will not want to follow through. Instead, have the handlers collect their dogs, leash them, and do some brief obedience or just allow the dogs to settle. Once they've calmed down, they can earn the chance to play together again. This helps enforce that the handlers are still in control, keeps the dogs from escalating into aggression, and gets the dogs used to being interrupted during high-energy interactions.